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Jonny Cardwell Sprrreeeeee

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Jon Cardwell recently redpointed the Dani Andrada route Open Your Mind 8C+ in seven tries.  The route resides at the notorious Santa Lynia in Spain.  Dani and Adam Ondra reported the route to be 9a.  It is reported that Jon is close to a very difficult project at the cliff as well. Good luck Jon.

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Orange For Anguish

BJ Tilden has recently completed a 14 year-old project outside his home in Lander, Wyoming. Originally bolted by Scott Milton in the mid-90's, this line became notorious for sending climbers packing. Hard moves combined with a long approach and very temperature-dependent holds make this route a test of one's motivation as well as their finger strength. Last Thursday, BJ completed the first ascent of Orange For Anguish and has proposed a grade of .14c, which would make it a candidate for hardest sport climb in Wyoming, alongside Jason Campbell's Genetic Drifter, a link-up of several routes on the Rodeo Wall at Wild Iris.
 
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In this short from producer Chuck Fryberger, BJ takes aim at this notorious project, gets it in his sights, and pulls the trigger.
 
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Zion repeated 3rd try

Last weekend, Mark Hobson made quick work of Skyler Weeks' Zion in Clear Creek Canyon, Colorado. Hobson stuck the dyno on his third attempt, flying about 8 feet from jug to jug. We first reported on this problems first ascent several weeks ago, speculating the grade of V13. Although Skyler did not have any comments on the grade, the fact that he is the current dyno world record holder and the effort he put into this problem gave us reason to believe it deserved this grade.  After Hobson's quick repeat, its safe to say that a departure from standard grading for such a specific move is necessary.

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Mark hobson utilized different foot beta, making it signifigantly easier.  Skyler Weeks, who is much bigger than Hobson, was unable to get his foot this high and had to use lower foot holds. Zion is definitely difficult for a person of similar stature attempting it with the original foot beta. 

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