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Sends in the 9th grade

Patxi Usobiaga has redpointed the infamous Action Direct 9a in the Frankenjura Germany.

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Gorka Karapeto has repeated the Sistematik Ihes in Spain.

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Adam Ondra, the Never Surprising Stong Kid...has taken the third ascent of Punt X.

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The Iron Monkey

MVM Producer Brian Solano was in Eldorado Canyon last week shooting Ethan Pringle trying the Iron Monkey. This is the hardest trad route in Eldo, originally put up by Matt Segal several years ago. Graded at 5.14a, it’s a hard bouldery route that has yet to be repeated! It was Ethan’s third day on the route and he had looked really strong in the previous two days. We headed up with our crew to film his efforts.

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On Ethan’s first try of the day, he fell at the crux dyno and a piece popped. After taking a scary fall and basically decking, Ethan recharged for several more attempts. He decided to use a lightly bigger nut right before the crux. He continued to fall at the crux, but got closer each time. As the light faded and the day neared its end, Ethan suited up for one last go.

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Success! He stuck the hold and smoothly continued to the top. This is only the second ascent the Iron Monkey has seen and Ethan agrees, “It’s hard!”. The Iron Monkey caps off Ethans streak of repeating Colorado’s hard trad lines. In the last month, he’s repeated the Orangutan Overhang (5.14-), The Iron Monkey (5.14-), The Five Year Plan (5.13+), Deadline (5.13+), and China Doll (5.14-). Look for some of these ascents to be featured in BS Productions' new film The Players, coming Spring 2009! 

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The Red

Ok, so I am an idiot. I've never been to the Red River Gorge, which I had been hearing for 16 years or so could be the best climbing in the country.

I'm finally here and its way better than I could have pictured.

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I'll be shooting for a few more days and we'll get some raw, documentary style videos on MVM from this sandstone paradise.

-MC

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