One week ago I arrived in China to shoot with Chris Sharma and Daila Ojeda in the fantasyland called Yangshuo. Although this is typically the beginning of the monsoon season, we've been extremely lucky and have been able to climb every day.
These two are in very good shape and climbing really well. The time spent on Spanish stone has them prepared for the brilliant routes that stretch up to 30 meters. As already reported online, Chris is killing it here, onsighting a few 14a's, repeating American Gangster (the controversially chipped route) without the chipped hold. Further down the wall,he established another 14b called "Spicy Noodle", featuring a long skinny tufa that goes from pencil thin to a foot thick.
He's got himself a monster project as you might expect, to the left of the Noodle. Its nearly 30 meters long and connects a series of desperate boulder problems with marginal rests. He tried in earnest yesterday despite the rain in the morning beginning to run down the wall, and managed to get 3/4 of the way up the route before falling.
We'll get video online soon of some of the highlights and a full video of the trip will be out soon.