Patxi Usobiaga has sent Michael Fusillier's Nice To Eat You, 9a at Pierrot Beach, France. Patxi Completed the line on is second attempt. Also at Pierrot Beach he onsighted Home Sweet Home 8c/+.
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Climbing Videos Archive
Patxi Usobiaga has sent Michael Fusillier's Nice To Eat You, 9a at Pierrot Beach, France. Patxi Completed the line on is second attempt. Also at Pierrot Beach he onsighted Home Sweet Home 8c/+.
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We have more footage from Jamie Emerson's trip to Switzerland, this time featuring Angie Payne, Daniel Woods, and Ryan Olson. The video is action packed with double digit problems, including sends of Confessions V14, Teamwork V11, Piranja V10, and Reve de Mario V11. Check it out now, exclusively in MVM Premium!
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Ty Landman has joined the "8b Flash Club" while traveling with Dave Graham in Swizterland. The problem's name is unknown at this time.
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Lisa Rands has made the FFA of Nutsa 8a+ in South Africa. As well Paul Robinson has repeated the Amandla 8c.
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Jon Cardwell has finished his Rifle sending spree with the 3rd ascent of Stock Boys Revenge. First repeated by Dave Graham and put up by Andy Reather.
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Ethan Pringle has made a second try send of Existence Mundane 14b/c. Ethan sided with the 8c grade.
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And finally, Gabor Szekely has completed his hardest redpoint with Zobble in Jurasic Park France.
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Joe Kinder ALWAYS Psyched!!!
Ethan Pringle made the second ascent of Sonnie Trotter's Canmore tespiece The Path 5.14 R. Ethan's ascent was within one day after two samplings on top-rope. Ethan is soon on his way to repeat Dreamcatcher and Cobra Crack in Squamish.
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Sources: ethanpringle.com
Photos: John Dickey
Jon Cardwell has remained one of the quietest stronger climbers I have met. With Sponsorship, ego, competition, and all the reason to boast and brag about ascents, Jon Cardwell has remained cool and calm about his strong accomplishments. With Ascents of Dreamtime 8b+, and a on hour killing of Ode To the Modern Man 8b+, a climber has to be proud of that. Jon’s recent send of The Crew after the incredibly strong and also low-key Adam Taylor of Boone, NC. After broken holds the formerly 8c route proves to be a lot harder and one of Jon’s hardest. Momentum Video Mag will be the first to have the video up soon...
What’s New Mexico like for climbing?
It’s not the greatest. It’s a hot desert climate with mediocre rock. It’s where I started climbing so it always has a home feeling where I feel comfortable which sometimes is all I need to enjoy climbing there.
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Do you follow any diet or training regime?
It depends on what my goals are. For the most part I eat more or less anything. I love eating good-fresh-food. When I prepare for a competition or climbing trip I tend to watch more of what I eat to be as active and efficient as I can. As for training for climbing I go through phases of training and climbing, just training and just climbing. Usually I follow a basic training structure week to week…
What’s the best way to go climbing?
When your syked! Its all about enjoying what your doing or else there is no point.
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The Crew 14+. What is the style of the line?
The Crew is a long power endurance route. Lots of resistance climbing with minimal resting points... The crux for me was not necessarily a single move but a large section of moves, which happened to be the last 15…
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What was your redpoint process like?
I gave The Crew one try last year after climbing its link Kuru 8c+. I didn’t think much of it then because I had to leave and it felt too difficult. I returned this year on a short one-day trip with my friend Gabor. We gave a couple attempts, but it was useless due to rain, wet holds, and low motivation. I returned to Boulder, went bouldering in some alpine areas to refresh my mind.
The next week I returned to Rifle to meet my dad whom I haven’t seen in a few months. I gave a few attempts only to find out that many of the holds had broken off. None-the- less, I found a new solution with the help of my friend and strongman Adam, who sent The Crew shortly before me. I fell at the end a couple times and started to get frustrated. It always felt as if I would never have the endurance.
Again I returned to Boulder, hung out with some good friends. RIP Big Paw… Another week passed and I returned to Rifle once more.
I gave some attempts on the first couple of days, falling at the same section up top. Frustrated, I built up a plan to get in shape. I took a couple days off of trying it and climbed a few easier routes like The Strange Ranger, Huge, Gamorrah and The Gay Science. All being 8b (.13d). Afterwards, I took a much needed rest day. The next day, I did my usual routine of waiting ALL DAY for the sun to go down and only after one more frustrating fall at the top, I sent The Crew.
How hard can you speculate it is?
My guess is the climb must be at least 8c+(14c). It’s hard to tell though. I haven’t spent this much time on a project, about 15 or more attempts… I’ve climbed many routes which are rated 8c+(14c) and almost 15 routes rated 8c(14b) but they took no way near the amount of effort The Crew required. It could be the style of climbing, long dynamic movement, which could benefit taller climbers and in addition my fight to get into route shape. I reckon if it were to be in areas such as Rodellar or Gorges Du loup it could be 9a(14d) perhaps or more easily put-two grades harder than the many 8c routes I climbed in the areas... The only thing that will judge the rating is the amount of ascents and people who care.
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While you lived in Boulder, Colorado what did you enjoy and what was lame?
I enjoyed the huge amount of climbing that’s in the area- any which direction guarantees good climbing within an hour. There is also a good motivated group of climbers, which is always good to have. Back in Albuquerque I climbed by myself 90 percent of the time. There is always a negative part of boulder in my mind, though. I’m not sure how to say it but to best describe my feelings on the place is that I wouldn’t be motivated to spend more than a year at a time there.
Do you consider Boulder to be the center of the universe for climbers?
For the ignorant maybe…
Did you meet a lot of college chicks?
Maybe a few.
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How do you feel about artificial holds?
Sometimes, when artificial holds are unnecessary, I find it quite lame. I have however I’ve been to many good areas such as Rodellar and Gorges Du Loup where the climbing is great even though there is a large amount of artificial glue and pockets around…
What do you enjoy more. Routes or Boulders?
It always depends on my motivation. Bottom line is I love rock climbing! All of it. So, when I’m psyched on climbing routes, that, for the time being, is most enjoyable. At the moment I prefer climbing routes.
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How do you stay strong for bouldering as well as routes?
I’ve always been around climbers who do the same. Daniel, Dave, Gabor yourself etc. so season by season I have been on a never-ending cycle of climbing routes and boulders at the same time. In the last couple months I have lived and climbed with my friend Ty Landman who motivated me to climb well in bouldering. In addition to people I climb with I always tend to train endurance and bouldering by climbing on a bouldering wall such as CATS or some places in Albuquerque.
What are your plans for the next 6 months?
My plans for at least the next 4 months is to spend a lot of time enjoying all that France, Austria, Switzerland, and Spain have to offer (yes, not just climbing). After December 16th I have no idea.
WORD UP JON!!!
Thanks tons man.
Joe Kinder
Photo credits: Nathan Bancroft, Reinhard Fichtinger, Nalle Hukkataival, Tom Moulin
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